Worlds collide on the streets of Colombia’s third-most populous city, Cali, where a diverse community of musicians, restaurateurs, and salsa enthusiasts converge to create a vibrant, pulsating atmosphere that captivates all who visit.
The Rhythmic Heartbeat of Cali
You hear Cali before you see it. The infectious rhythms spill from cafes and echo through the city’s clubs, creating an atmosphere that is irresistibly alive. This tropical metropolis, located a short hop southwest from the Colombian capital, Bogotá, has been a magnet for dance-lovers since the 1970s, when Puerto Rican and Cuban musicians brought mambo grooves to its streets via New York. The city’s cultural cross-pollination extends to its culinary scene, which draws on European, African, and Indigenous roots, a heritage vibrantly showcased during August’s Petronio Álvarez music festival, when Afro-Pacific percussion fills the air.
Dance to the Beat
In San Antonio, Cali’s old colonial neighborhood, aspiring salseros (salsa dancers) can hone their skills at SalsaPura, one of many dance schools that dot the city. Once confident, they can showcase their moves at MalaMaña or La Caldera del Diablo, underground salsa bars in the Centro district. Here, sweat-soaked couples whirl in mesmeric synchrony, not far from the neo-gothic church L’Hermita and the bustling clubs like La Pérgola Clandestina.
To dive deeper into the city’s unique dance style, salsa caleña, visit the Museo de la Salsa in Barrio Obrero. This museum offers an all-singing, all-dancing tour that traces salsa rhythms from Cuba to Cali. Alternatively, a guided nighttime tour with Cali Salsa Experience provides an immersive and safe way to explore the city’s vibrant club scene, best traversed by taxi after dark. For those who prefer to leave dancing to the professionals, El Mulato Cabaret presents star-spangled bailadores (dancers) whose legs become a scintillating blur of motion.
Culinary Delights
All that dancing can work up quite an appetite. San Antonio’s grand colonial houses are home to restaurants like Domingo, which spotlights indigenous ingredients cultivated by rural communities across Colombia’s southwest. Across the river, Restaurante Ringlete serves traditional Colombian Pacific dishes with a slow-food ethos, including encocado, a coconut-infused seafood stew, and crisp empanadas with zingy ají sauce. For a deeper dive into local flavors, head south to Galería Alameda market, where Rellenas Carolina offers fermented-corn tamales and richly flavored blood sausage.
No visit to Cali is complete without experiencing the mellifluous tones of renowned Afro-Pacific musician Nidia Góngora and sampling viche, a traditional sugarcane liquor distilled by local Afro-Colombian communities. At Viche Positivo, Nidia’s intimate marketside restaurant, you can enjoy both. Afterward, browse for souvenirs at La Linterna, a nearby shop where 19th-century presses produce eye-catching posters featuring retro viche designs.
A Day of Leisure
For a laid-back day, stroll along the banks of the Cali River, where vendors sell lulada, a refreshing drink made from ice, sour lulo fruit, and sugar. From there, wander towards Granada, a leafy neighborhood filled with artisanal cafes and boutiques selling Colombian-made clothes and jewelry. Café Gardenia is known for its delicious vegan banana bread, best enjoyed in its courtyard, where lime-green parakeets flit between rose-apple trees.
Cali is a city that teems with flora and fauna, thanks in part to its proximity to Los Farallones de Cali National Park. Spiky iguanas dash across lawns, wispy orchids wrap around trees, and in the Jardín Botánico de Cali, just outside the city, flamboyant bromeliads and glossy anthuriums bloom in a rare patch of dry tropical forest.
Evening Escapades
Back in San Antonio, Criollan Lovers offers adventurous cocktails made with viches, mezcal, and other Latin American spirits, accompanied by stirring music on weekends. At dusk, climb the hill to Parque San Antonio, crowned by an 18th-century chapel, to watch the sunset and listen to salsa anthems rising from the city below—a siren call beckoning you back for another night on the town.
Three Highlights Not to Miss in Cali
- La Pérgola Clandestina
- This three-storey nightclub ranks among the best in the world. Party-goers dance to a mix of reggaeton, salsa, house, and R&B before heading to the roof terrace for fresh air and shots of aguardiente, Colombia’s firewater.
- Cali Salsa Experience
- Blending history and hedonism, these carefully curated tours introduce Cali through its songs, with stops at museums and record shops. Explore the clubs of Barrio Obrero or let a professional dancer guide you through La Calle del Sabor, a salsa party in the city center.
- Domingo
- In a restaurant canopied by foliage, chef Catalina Vélez serves inventive dishes featuring indigenous produce such as piangua, a mollusc harvested from Colombia’s mangrove forests. Domingo also hosts special evenings in collaboration with top chefs from the region.
Cali is a city where the past and present dance together, creating a unique blend of culture, music, and cuisine that promises an unforgettable experience. Whether you’re a salsa enthusiast, a food lover, or a curious traveler, Cali’s vibrant spirit is sure to captivate you.
