In the fading light of an African plain, four lionesses bask lazily under the sun’s final rays. Nearby, jackals yelp and scamper, their antics reminiscent of mischievous children as they edge closer, hoping to snag leftovers. From another corner, three hyenas creep in, their hulking frames and toothy grins evoking a sense of intrigue and unease. It’s a quintessential wildlife tableau, straight out of the African savanna.
But the scene quickly shifts gears as a fascinating fact about spotted hyenas steals the spotlight. Female spotted hyenas, it turns out, are unlike any other animal. Their anatomy includes a unique feature an extended clitoris, often mistaken for a penis. This evolutionary trait underlines their dominance in hyena society, driven by high testosterone levels. It’s the kind of revelation that stops safari-goers in their tracks, a curious mix of biology and wonder that sets the tone for the adventure ahead.
This isn’t your average safari, though. It’s part of the annual Pyramids of Life course, a training program designed for the expert guides of Alex Walker’s Serian Camps in Kenya’s Maasai Mara and Tanzania’s Serengeti. Originally intended for professionals, the course now welcomes the curious public, offering a rare opportunity to see the wilderness through the eyes of seasoned guides.
The philosophy behind Pyramids of Life is simple but profound: to shift the focus of safaris from passive observation to active engagement. “We want people to move beyond just sitting in a jeep, hopping from one sighting to another,” explains Alex Walker. “The goal is to inspire curiosity, encouraging a deeper connection with the wild.”
The course takes place entirely in the field. As Clint Schipper, one of the trainers, points out, “This isn’t about sitting in a classroom. The Mara North Conservancy itself is our classroom. We let nature dictate the lessons, immersing ourselves fully in the bush.”
Participants, whether seasoned guides or nature enthusiasts, quickly discover that this immersive approach transforms the safari experience. Instead of racing toward a herd of elephants in the distance, for example, they examine elephant dung up close, learning to distinguish it from hippo droppings an unexpected but enriching detail.
Serian’s guiding team is as diverse as the wildlife they explore. Seasoned guides with decades of bush knowledge collaborate with younger recruits, many of whom are graduates of the Koiyaki Guiding School in the nearby Naboisho Conservancy. Among them are women breaking barriers in a field traditionally dominated by men. Together, they share a collective passion for wildlife, blending traditional wisdom with modern training.
This blend of expertise and curiosity fosters a dynamic learning environment. By the end of the five-day experience, participants not only deepen their understanding of the wild but also gain a renewed appreciation for the intricate web of life that sustains these ecosystems. It’s a safari unlike any other one that lingers in the heart and mind long after the final rays of the sun have faded.
