Bolsover Castle, perched atop a hill in Derbyshire, offers one of the best views in the region. With its turrets and romantic, gothic appearance, it might seem like the home of a medieval knight or a wizard. However, this architectural gem is actually a 17th-century creation, built by a wealthy aristocrat who took great pride in his “new castle,” even adopting the title of Duke of Newcastle.
The castle holds a special place in my heart, as it was the catalyst for my career choice. As a teenager, I stumbled upon a book about a treasure hunt conducted by the architectural historian Mark Girouard in the 1960s. Girouard was searching for the lost houses designed by the Smythson family, a group of skilled masons and designers from Elizabethan England. His search led him to Bolsover, and it was there that I found my calling. Through a series of fortunate events, I ended up working at Bolsover Castle as an assistant inspector of ancient monuments for English Heritage, marking the start of my professional journey.
One of the most curious features of Bolsover Castle is its Riding House, a structure dedicated to the Duke’s passion for training horses in the art of ballet. This peculiar form of equestrian discipline was popular at the court of King Charles I, and can still be seen at the Spanish Riding School in Vienna. The idea of teaching horses to leap gracefully through the air may seem unnecessary, but the discipline required for such feats was akin to mindfulness. The rider had to remain calm and fully aware of the horse’s movements, qualities that could be applied to leadership. A rider in complete control of a powerful animal symbolized the ability to master one’s inner passions and impulses.
The architectural style of Bolsover Castle is often described as “Artisan Mannerism,” a term that was once used dismissively to suggest the work of craftsmen rather than true artists. This style reflects a fusion of local traditions with the ideas of Renaissance Italy, resulting in a somewhat quirky interpretation of the period. To an expert eye, the castle’s design might appear somewhat flawed, but these imperfections may have been intentional. The most famous example is the statue of Venus in the garden, emerging from a bath with one leg notably longer than the other. This “mistake” could be seen as a playful commentary by the local craftsman, who might have been mocking the pretentiousness of the Duke’s obsession with Italian Renaissance ideals.
Despite its flaws, Bolsover Castle stands as a testament to the eccentricities of its time. It’s a very English wonder, combining ancient northern English symbolism with the cutting-edge ideas of Renaissance Italy. The castle’s history, however, is tinged with failure. During the British Civil Wars, the Duke of Newcastle became a Royalist general and sent his prized horses from the Riding House to the battlefield. Unfortunately, he lost the critical Battle of Marston Moor, partly due to a hangover that caused him to miss the battle. The Duke’s failure mirrored that of the monarchy, which lost both the war and the king.
After the war, Bolsover Castle suffered further damage. Cromwell’s troops plundered the estate, and the castle narrowly escaped demolition. Today, it remains a roofless ruin, its few remaining rooms empty and echoing with the past. Despite its dilapidated state, the castle still exudes a sense of faded grandeur, with an air of decadent magic that seems to linger in its walls. Though the horses no longer dance and the Venus statue may never achieve perfection, Bolsover Castle remains a fascinating blend of history, art, and human folly.
