In the heart of France’s Vosges mountains, where the landscape is as rich in history as it is in natural beauty, lies a network of ancient mule trails leading to centuries-old farm stays, or fermes-auberges. These rustic inns, many of which have been serving travelers since the 19th century, offer more than just a place to rest. They provide an authentic glimpse into France’s pastoral past, serving up historic cheeses and traditional meals that have been perfected over generations.
A Journey Through Time
Reaching these fermes-auberges is no small feat. The journey often involves trekking through the rugged Vosges mountains, where the weather can be as unpredictable as the terrain. One moment, you might find yourself basking in the warmth of a spring sun, and the next, battling a fine, freezing rain. But the reward at the end of these ancient trails is well worth the effort. As you crest a hill and catch sight of a long stone building with a red roof standing out against the rolling green hills, you know you’ve reached your destination: a warm, welcoming farmhouse like Rothenbrunnen.
Rothenbrunnen is a prime example of these historic farm stays. The ferme-auberge, which has been run by the same family since 1970, offers travelers not just a place to sleep, but a window into the region’s rich agricultural traditions. The Schwebel family, who took over the farm in 2016, have continued the tradition of producing local cheeses and serving hearty, farm-made meals to weary hikers, skiers, and e-bikers alike.
The Birth of the Fermes-Auberges
The story of these fermes-auberges begins in the 9th century when marcaires (dairy farmers) first started leading their cattle from the Munster Valley onto the high plateaus of the Vosges mountains each spring. These plateaus, situated 1,200 meters above sea level, provided the ideal pastures for producing local cheeses, including the famous Munster cheese, which shares its name with the valley.
By the late 19th century, these dairy farmers had also become innkeepers, thanks in large part to the creation of the Club Vosgien in 1872. This trekking organization transformed the local mule tracks into well-maintained hiking trails, which they continue to mark and maintain to this day. As hikers began exploring the region, they soon found themselves knocking on the doors of the marcaires, who welcomed them with simple, yet hearty meals. This tradition of hospitality has been passed down through the generations, and today, it is the cornerstone of the fermes-auberges experience.
The Tradition of the Repas Marcaire
A stay at a ferme-auberge is not complete without indulging in a traditional repas marcaire (dairy farmer’s meal). This meal is a celebration of the farm’s produce, with 55% of the food served at Rothenbrunnen coming from the Schwebel family’s own farm. The meal typically begins with a platter of charcuterie, including sausage made from the farm’s beef. This is followed by a hearty portion of homemade pork pie, accompanied by raw vegetable salads and roïgabrageldi, a local dish of potatoes slowly cooked in farm butter. The meal concludes with a slice of wild blueberry tart, made from the brimbelle (wild blueberries) that grow abundantly in the surrounding hills.
The dining room at Rothenbrunnen, decorated with massive cow bells and pastoral photographs, offers the perfect setting for this traditional meal. The warmth of the wood-paneled walls and the comforting aromas from the kitchen create a cozy atmosphere, making you feel like a guest in the home of an old friend.
A Unique Connection to the Land
One of the most remarkable aspects of these fermes-auberges is their deep connection to the land. The farmers who run these inns are first and foremost caretakers of the land, and their commitment to sustainable farming practices is evident in every aspect of their work. The Association des Fermes-Auberges du Haut-Rhin, created in 1971, ensures that its members adhere to strict environmental and touristic standards, preserving the natural beauty and cultural heritage of the region for future generations.
This connection to the land is also reflected in the way these fermes-auberges are designed to be reached. The well-marked trails of the Club Vosgien lead travelers directly to their doorsteps, encouraging exploration of the surrounding landscapes. Whether you’re hiking to the summit of the Petit Ballon, with its panoramic views of the Munster and Sondernach valleys, or simply strolling through the rolling hills, the journey to a ferme-auberge is an integral part of the experience.
Embracing the Past, Looking to the Future
As more travelers seek authentic experiences and a deeper connection to the places they visit, the fermes-auberges of the Vosges mountains offer a unique opportunity to step back in time. These historic farm stays not only preserve the traditions of the past but also adapt to the needs of modern travelers. At Rothenbrunnen, for example, the inn remains open year-round, welcoming visitors in all seasons and catering to a variety of activities, from cross-country skiing in the winter to e-biking in the summer.
The future of these fermes-auberges lies in their ability to balance tradition with innovation, ensuring that they remain a vital part of the cultural and natural landscape of the Vosges mountains. For those who make the journey, the reward is not just a delicious meal or a cozy bed but a profound sense of connection to a way of life that has endured for centuries.
In a world that is increasingly fast-paced and disconnected, the fermes-auberges of the Vosges mountains offer a rare chance to slow down, savor the simple pleasures of life, and experience the timeless beauty of rural France. Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or a curious traveler, these mountain farm stays are a treasure waiting to be discovered.
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