Tucked away in the heart of Brazil’s Maranhão state lies a surreal landscape that feels otherworldly. Lençóis Maranhenses National Park is home to vast, bone-white sand dunes, some reaching up to 40 meters high, and crystal-clear, turquoise lagoons that look like something from a dream. When you step into this natural wonder, it’s easy to see why locals like Cassio José França Souza, a lifelong resident of the nearby village of Santo Amaro do Maranhão, consider the place so unique. With an affectionate smile, Souza tells me he can recognize his friends and family by their footprints in the sand a testament to the connection the people here have with this land, which is as ancient as it is enigmatic.
Lençóis Maranhenses is a massive field of sand dunes spanning over 600 square kilometers, and it’s one of Brazil’s most extraordinary, yet lesser-known, natural attractions. The landscape feels eerily like a scene from a sci-fi movie, with its bone-white dunes stretching for miles and lagoons of vibrant blues and greens scattered in between. The dunes themselves are constantly shifting, moving up to 10 meters every year due to the powerful winds that blow across the region.
Visiting the park feels like stepping into another world. The first glimpse of the dunes, from an aerial view, will leave you breathless. The sand dunes, sculpted by wind into elegant curves and ridges, stand in sharp contrast to the bright blue lagoons that form between them. These lagoons fill up with rainwater between December and May, creating an incredible contrast against the white sand. Swimming in one of these lagoons, it feels as though you are floating in the sky, with the water’s color so clear and vibrant it’s hard to tell where the water ends and the sky begins.
To explore this otherworldly paradise, I was guided by Souza, whose family has lived in the area for generations. Souza, who began guiding visitors when he was just a teenager, took me across the dunes, navigating the sandy ridges with ease. As we walked, I learned about his deep connection to this place, passed down through generations. His wife, Maria dos Milagres, grew up in Baixa Grande, one of the oases within the park, and she taught him everything he knows about the land. The story of the park, much like the footprints in the sand, is deeply personal for those who call it home.
While tourism has only recently begun to take off in the region, the park has remained relatively untouched, preserving its mystique. The first wave of tourists arrived in the 1990s, attracted by the kitesurfing opportunities offered by the steady trade winds. In the 2000s, a paved road connecting the state capital of São Luís to the park opened the door for more visitors. However, it wasn’t until the pandemic, when many Brazilians turned to domestic travel, that Lençóis Maranhenses truly gained recognition as a sought-after destination. In 2023, the park recorded over 250,000 visitors, a 150% increase over previous years.
While the park is undeniably stunning, it is not without its challenges. Lençóis Maranhenses is not an easy destination to reach. Visitors must navigate through remote areas, including the bustling town of Barreirinhas and the tranquil village of Atins, before reaching the park’s entrance. There are few hotels and accommodations, and those that exist are often small, intimate affairs offering just a handful of rooms.
During my visit, I stayed at La Ferme de Georges, a charming retreat on the outskirts of Atins. The hotel, which opened in 2019, offers guests the chance to experience the park in luxury while still maintaining a connection with the local community. The owners, Marina Linhares and Tomas Perez, have worked to create an atmosphere that feels both authentic and indulgent. The hotel’s focus on sustainability and community involvement sets it apart from other high-end accommodations in the area.
As I spent my days exploring the park and swimming in its lagoons, I couldn’t help but feel a deep appreciation for the landscape. The stunning natural beauty of Lençóis Maranhenses is matched only by the resilience and spirit of the people who live there. For Souza, his family’s footprints in the sand are a reminder of the bond between the people and the land a bond that has remained strong despite the winds of change.
