The Tour des Ecrins, a circuit of the Écrins National Park in the Hautes-Alpes of France, is one of Europe’s finest long-distance hikes. Stretching over 180 kilometers and taking around 12 days, it offers a chance to experience both the grandeur and the subtleties of the park, providing an adventure that blends challenging terrain with moments of peaceful reflection.
The hike begins in Le Bourg-d’Oisans, a small town in southeastern France. From here, the path climbs steeply through wooded switchbacks, passing medieval hamlets clinging to the cliffs. These settlements, complete with fountains and traditional houses, offer a glimpse into the region’s past, while the surrounding landscape is a mixture of forests, meadows, and high alpine terrain. The variety of woodland comprising aspen, alder, sycamore, beech, pine, and birch adds an unexpected charm to the journey, contrasting with the towering mountain peaks that dominate the skyline.
The park itself is a sanctuary for wildlife. Ibex have been successfully reintroduced, and animals like otters, beavers, and bearded vultures are making a return. The flora is equally rich, with dragonflies, lizards, and brightly colored beetles accompanying hikers on their journey. Beyond the treeline, eagles soar above, while marmots keep watch from their rocky perches. The high-altitude meadows are a reminder of the importance of seasonal grazing, and the landscape often evokes the pastoral scenes of Mongolia or the Lake District.
The Tour des Écrins is more than just a hiking challenge; it’s an invitation to reflect on how humans interact with nature. The park’s approach to conservation is thoughtful and layered, with areas like the Réserve Intégrale du Lauvitel remaining off-limits to human activity, allowing ecosystems to evolve naturally. Elsewhere, access is carefully managed, with grazing, fires, and bikes prohibited in some parts, while wildlife thrives in the protected zones.
The presence of wolves in the park adds another layer to this delicate balance. While some shepherds have lost livestock to wolf attacks, they view the wolf as a natural part of the landscape, likening it to weather unpredictable but necessary. The French government supports shepherds with grants for training and equipment, as well as compensation for losses, helping to maintain a harmonious coexistence between humans and wildlife.
As the hike progresses, the landscape becomes wilder and more remote. In the southern part of the circuit, the mountains close in, and the valleys become more isolated. The path often disappears, forcing hikers to navigate over rough terrain. The final stretch of the journey, as the seasons shift from summer to autumn, brings a sense of tranquility and accomplishment. The sound of cicadas and owls, the rush of water, and the occasional gust of wind create a meditative atmosphere that makes the aches and pains of the hike fade away.
On the last day, the hike ends at Lac du Lauvitel, a stunning alpine lake surrounded by cliffs. While the area is swarmed with visitors, the contrast between the bustling shore and the surrounding wilderness highlights the tension between human activity and nature conservation. The experience offers a powerful reminder of the complexities of preserving wild places and the need for a more thoughtful approach to our relationship with the environment.
The Tour des Écrins is a journey of discovery of nature, of history, and of the ways in which we can live alongside the wild places that remain. It’s a hike of a lifetime, offering both physical challenge and a chance to reflect on the beauty and fragility of the natural world.
