Fishguard, often overshadowed by St Davids and Tenby, is a charming Welsh seaside town that makes for an excellent off-season base for coastal and countryside exploration. A hidden gem in Pembrokeshire, Fishguard offers a blend of art, history, and nature, all easily accessible by train, bus, and bike, making it an ideal destination for a car-free getaway.
One of the town’s newest attractions is the Celf ar Droed (Art Afoot) trail network, launched in December. This series of walking routes, ranging from 1.25 to 1.75 miles, connects Fishguard with its neighboring town of Goodwick, showcasing a variety of local artworks. A highlight of the trail is the stunning stainless steel seahorse sculpture, Llŷr, created by local artist Gideon Peterson. This impressive five-meter artwork is designed to reflect the ever-changing light of the sky and serves as a protector of seafarers. Along the trails, visitors can also encounter other sculptures, including a dragonfly rising from Goodwick Moor and a statue of Jemima Nicholas, a local heroine who helped defend Fishguard during the 1797 French invasion.
Fishguard’s revitalization has been fueled by a wave of new initiatives and businesses, many of which have emerged in recent years. The Cove Corner cafe, now run by a young team, is transforming into a lively social hub, while the recently opened Trove cafe offers a creative space for workshops and gatherings. Long-established spots like the Seaways Bookshop and Nourish sourdough bakery add to the town’s vibrant atmosphere. The historic Farmers Arms pub, which had been closed for years, is also undergoing renovation, further contributing to the town’s growing appeal.
For those looking to explore beyond the town, Fishguard is well-connected by public transport. The T5 bus route provides easy access to nearby Dinas, a perfect starting point for a hike around Dinas Head. Alternatively, visitors can head to Newport, a nearby town known for its beautiful coastline and the opportunity to explore the hills and valleys inland by e-mountain bike. Local company Hidden Routes offers guided biking trips, allowing participants to venture into the scenic Gwaun Valley and up to Carningli Common, one of the best viewpoints in Wales. The area is rich in history, with ancient landmarks like the Pentre Ifan dolmen, a 5,000-year-old burial site, waiting to be explored.
Another convenient option for getting around is the on-demand fflecsi bus service, provided by Transport for Wales. This app-based service allows visitors to book rides in advance, making it easy to travel to remote locations such as Pwll Deri, where hikers can embark on a scenic 10-mile walk back to Fishguard along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. The walk offers breathtaking views of the rugged coastline, with highlights such as Strumble Head and its iconic lighthouse, as well as the chance to spot wildlife like harbour porpoises and seals.
Fishguard’s combination of art, history, and natural beauty makes it a fantastic destination for a winter getaway. With its welcoming atmosphere, excellent local businesses, and the stunning Pembrokeshire landscape on its doorstep, the town is a hidden treasure for those looking to escape the crowds and experience Wales at its most serene.