The Georgian Military Road, a 210km route winding through the Caucasus Mountains of Georgia, has been a passage for people and ideas since antiquity. The road offers breathtaking landscapes with lush valleys crisscrossed by rivers, mountains blanketed in wildflowers, and picturesque villages perched on cliffs. Georgian Orthodox churches, with their iconic barrel domes, occasionally emerge on the horizon, while Soviet mosaics still decorate abandoned bus stops.
Historically, the Georgian Military Road has played a significant role in the region’s turbulent past. It was a key military thoroughfare, first known as Porta Caucasia, which connected empires in the Caucasus. The road was used by the Romans, Persians, Ottomans, and Russians, who valued its strategic position between Europe and Asia. It was an essential route for transporting troops and launching military campaigns. In the 18th century, after the Treaty of Georgievsk, the Russians established a modern military road along this route, known as the Georgian Military Road, which played a critical role in Russian military operations during the Caucasian War, the Russo-Circassian War, and the Murid War.
Beyond its military history, the road was also part of the Great Silk Road, which connected China to the Mediterranean. Caravans carrying silk, spices, and jewelry passed through the region, and ancient writers such as Strabo and Pliny the Elder praised the road’s natural beauty. Even today, the road remains a vital route, transporting goods across the Caucasus region, from electronics to flowers.
The Georgian Military Road also represents the rich cultural heritage of the region, although this has often been overshadowed by conflict. Today, the road is gaining popularity among tourists, who explore its cultural and historical sites. Tour companies in Georgia now include the road in their itineraries, offering visitors a chance to experience the region’s heritage.
The journey along the road starts in Mtskheta, a historic city that was once a key Silk Road trading hub and the capital of Georgia. Mtskheta is home to three significant churches: the Jvari Monastery, the Samtavro Monastery, and the Svetitstkhoveli Cathedral. The city was also the site where Saint Nino introduced Christianity to Georgia in the 4th century. Today, Mtskheta is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, attracting visitors with its religious landmarks and ancient history.
Not far from Mtskheta is the Jvari Monastery, perched on a cliff and considered one of the finest examples of early Georgian church architecture. Built in the 6th century, it marks the site where the first cross was placed to signify the rise of Christianity in Georgia. The monastery remains a major pilgrimage site for Georgians.
Further along the road, the Georgian Military Road passes through villages and remote locations that tell the story of Georgia’s Soviet past. In Tsikhisdziri, a small village, Soviet-era mosaics still adorn the walls of abandoned bus stops, depicting lions, horses, and mythical birds in bright colors. These mosaics, created in the 20th century to spread political and cultural messages, have deteriorated since the collapse of the USSR in 1991, but they remain an important part of Georgia’s cultural landscape.
A visit to the Tsiskari Young Pioneer Camp, near the village of Tskhvarichamia, offers another glimpse into Georgia’s Soviet history. The camp’s walls are lined with colorful mosaics that depict scenes from Georgian folk life and festivities, including a famous panel showing Young Pioneers, children dressed in uniforms, playing drums and picking flowers.
The journey also takes travelers to the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument in Gudauri, which features the largest and most famous Soviet mosaic in Georgia. Located high in the mountains, the monument celebrates the bond between Russia and Georgia, a complex relationship that has evolved over centuries.
The journey along the Georgian Military Road offers a unique opportunity to explore Georgia’s rich history and cultural heritage, from ancient religious sites to Soviet-era art, and to experience the natural beauty of one of the most picturesque regions in the world.
