Kenya’s proposed ban on mitumba (second-hand clothes) is once again stirring political tension, as the government attempts to revive the domestic cotton, textile, and apparel (CTA) sector. The Ministry of Trade has unveiled the National Cotton, Textile and Apparel Policy of 2024, which aims to revamp the cotton industry by promoting local production, job creation, and value addition in the CTA value chain.
Trade Cabinet Secretary Lee Kinyanjui acknowledged the delicate political nature of the issue, stating that a declaration to ban mitumba is “a huge political statement.” He emphasized that no country has built a strong textile industry while being a major importer of second-hand clothes.
Kenya is currently the largest importer of mitumba in Africa, with over 866,000 tonnes brought into the country between 2019 and 2023, worth Sh95.2 billion, according to the Kenya National Bureau of Statistics (KNBS). In 2023 alone, mitumba imports rose by 11.5 percent to 198,000 metric tonnes, valued at Sh26.3 billion.
While the policy seeks to support local production, pricing remains a major hurdle. “It is not that Kenyans are in love with mitumba; it is because of the costing aspect,” Kinyanjui explained, stressing the need to produce affordable local alternatives.
The Kenya Kwanza administration, in its manifesto, had warned against simplistic solutions like outright bans, advocating instead for investment in cotton farming and processing, including growing BT cotton and building a viable supply chain.
Despite the economic rationale, mitumba plays a critical role in Kenya’s informal economy, supporting millions of traders and low-income consumers. The Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya has warned that a ban would devastate livelihoods.
Politicians remain cautious, recalling the backlash in 2022 when ODM leader Raila Odinga proposed a ban and was heavily criticized. Similarly, former Trade CS Moses Kuria faced resistance before backtracking on similar remarks.
The policy mirrors approaches by countries like Rwanda and Ethiopia, which have restricted mitumba imports to protect their textile sectors. However, in Kenya, fears of political consequences continue to delay bold action, leaving the future of the industry and the livelihoods it touches in limbo.
