Kenya’s textile industry is at a crossroads. Once a thriving sector supporting hundreds of thousands, it now struggles under the weight of second-hand clothing (mitumba) imports and fabric imports that stifle local production. The contrast is stark: while Kenya is the largest exporter of garments under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), the local textile industry is fighting for survival.
In the 1980s and 1990s, Kenya had a strong fibre-to-fashion industry, boasting 52 textile mills and over 500,000 jobs in the value chain. Today, only four large textile mills remain, and employment has dwindled to just 54,000 people. The decline began in the late 1990s when cotton farmers abandoned the crop due to poor prices, cutting off the raw material supply for textile factories. At the same time, trade liberalization led to an influx of second-hand clothing, which became the affordable option for most Kenyans.
The impact on businesses has been severe. Traders selling new clothes, like Nehruji Baiji, have seen sales drop by over 40% due to competition from mitumba and rising operational costs. Meanwhile, mitumba traders like William Mogaka and Catherine Wamahiu thrive, with lower overheads and high demand. The paradox is clear: while mitumba sustains millions of livelihoods, it also weakens the domestic textile industry.
Government interventions have been slow but steady. Efforts to revive cotton farming include the introduction of certified cotton seed systems and the commercialization of Bt cotton in 2019. The state has invested over Ksh7 billion in Rivatex, a once-dominant textile manufacturer, but raw material shortages still hinder full-scale operations.
Despite these challenges, there is still hope. The National Cotton Textile and Apparel Policy aims to reinvigorate the industry by promoting local production. Additionally, the ‘Buy Kenya Build Kenya’ initiative encourages the consumption of locally made fabrics. However, Kenya must act fast to strike a balance between mitumba imports and domestic production.
Time is running out. Without urgent reforms, Kenya’s textile industry risks becoming a relic of the past, overtaken by cheaper imports and an unrelenting demand for second-hand clothing. For the sector to thrive again, policies must support both affordability for consumers and sustainability for local producers.
