Exfoliation, the process of sloughing off dead skin cells from the outer layer of your skin, has been gaining a lot of attention, especially on social media platforms like TikTok. You might have come across influencers who claim that exfoliating your skin can make it look brand new, turning back the clock on aging skin. But before you dive in with that scrub or serum, experts suggest approaching exfoliation with a bit of caution.
Dr. Rachel Reynolds, a dermatologist and interim chair of dermatology at Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center in Boston, emphasizes that exfoliation is not a miracle worker. “Exfoliation isn’t going to erase wrinkles,” she explains. “It has its benefits, but it needs to be done carefully. Using the wrong product or technique can irritate the skin and cause more harm than good.”
Exfoliation is typically done in one of two ways: mechanical (or physical) exfoliation and chemical exfoliation. Both methods aim to remove dead skin cells, but they work in different ways.
Mechanical exfoliation involves using tools like a loofah, brush, or abrasive scrubs that physically scrub the skin. This method is effective at revealing smoother skin by removing the top layer of dead skin, which can make the skin appear dull. Dr. Reynolds points out that this type of exfoliation can also help unclog pores and reduce certain kinds of acne.
On the other hand, chemical exfoliation uses substances like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), or salicylic acid to dissolve dead skin cells. These acids work on a micro-level to target the skin’s surface, helping to reduce uneven pigmentation and improve skin texture. “Chemical exfoliants can really give your skin a fresh, glowing look,” Dr. Reynolds notes.
With the rise of countless exfoliating products on the market face washes, masks, body scrubs it’s hard not to wonder why exfoliation is so heavily promoted in the skincare industry. According to Dr. Reynolds, it’s a marketing tactic. “Cosmetic companies love to sell products with an exfoliating label because it encourages consumers to buy more,” she says. However, she cautions that skincare is largely unregulated, meaning companies can make claims that aren’t always backed by clinical evidence.
So, do we really need to exfoliate? The short answer is no. Dr. Reynolds explains that exfoliating is not essential for everyone. “If you don’t exfoliate, you might notice some dry, rough patches, but it’s mostly a cosmetic concern.” While exfoliation can help improve the look of your skin, it’s not something that must be done on a regular basis.
Exfoliation can be especially helpful for areas like the arms and legs, which tend to become drier with age. Dry, flaky skin in these areas can sometimes resemble fish scales, but it’s usually harmless. In some cases, you might have keratosis pilaris, a condition that causes small, bumpy patches, most often on the upper arms. Dr. Reynolds suggests that physical exfoliators can be a good first step in treating this condition, but gentle chemical exfoliants can also do the trick.
However, if you’re not careful, exfoliation can cause harm. Both mechanical and chemical exfoliants can irritate sensitive skin or worsen conditions like acne. Overdoing it whether by scrubbing too hard or using high-concentration acids can lead to irritation and even sunburn. “Exfoliating too aggressively can also aggravate existing inflammatory acne,” Dr. Reynolds warns.
For those new to exfoliation, Dr. Reynolds suggests starting slowly. “Try using a simple washcloth to gauge how your skin reacts before moving on to more intense exfoliating methods.” When you’re ready to try chemical exfoliants, she recommends starting with milder versions, such as lower concentrations of AHAs or BHAs, before progressing to stronger formulas if needed.
If you have persistent skin issues like melasma (dark spots) or acne, consider consulting a dermatologist for professional treatments like chemical peels, which offer more targeted exfoliation.
Lastly, Dr. Reynolds advises against over-exfoliating. “Your skin needs time to recover between sessions. Limit exfoliation to two or three times a week to keep your skin in balance.”
In the end, exfoliation can be a great way to refresh your skin, but like all things in skincare, moderation and care are key. Take the time to choose the right products for your skin type and, as always, listen to what your skin needs.
