A nostalgic journey aboard the sleeper train from Amsterdam to Berlin and Dresden evokes the romance of slow travel and the charm of life on the tracks. The evening begins with a delightful dinner at BrasserieMarie, overlooking Amsterdam’s Amstel River, followed by a nightcap at Freddy’s Bar in the Hotel De L’Europe. After a short walk to Amsterdam Centraal Station, the overnight train departs at 22:20, heading towards Berlin. As the bunks are made up and the blinds pulled down, a sense of nostalgia sets in, reminiscent of childhood journeys across the Alps, where the rhythmic sound of the train on the tracks lulls one into a deep sleep.
Day two begins early with a wake-up call at 06:00, offering a hot drink and breakfast in a box. The train approaches Berlin, passing through urban gardens known as Schrebergärten, which are remnants of World War I, where extra food production was cultivated in fenced green colonies. This leads to the striking Berlin Hauptbahnhof, Europe’s largest railway station, which connects the city to various parts of the continent. The vast terminal is teeming with life, offering a sense of boundless possibility despite the current geopolitical challenges.
After disembarking, the day includes a swim, showers, and a sauna at the neoclassical Oderberger public baths, a refreshing way to prepare for the day ahead. The accommodation for the night is at the Circus Hotel, located in the trendy Prenzlauer Berg district, once a working-class Jewish enclave and later a hub of counterculture during the division of the city. The hotel offers a variety of options, from dormitory-style rooms to private apartments with balconies overlooking the city skyline. The area is perfect for strolling, with charming streets, beer gardens, and vibrant cultural spots.
In the morning, a visit to the Altes Museum reveals an impressive collection of classical antiquities, many of which were acquired by Friedrich Wilhelm I in the 17th century. These treasures were later moved or stolen during the Nazi era and the Cold War, but today they are displayed for public admiration. The museum’s exhibits include the Boy with Thorn and an erotic Greek vase, offering a glimpse into the ancient world.
The next leg of the journey takes the sleeper train to Dresden, a city that exudes a more relaxed, holiday-like atmosphere compared to the bustling energy of Berlin. Known as the “Florence on the Elbe,” Dresden is home to the Zwinger, a grand palace modeled after Versailles, and the Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden, which houses a remarkable collection of art and sculptures predating 1800. After a visit to the museums, a leisurely lunch is enjoyed on the terrace at the Alte Meister Cafe, overlooking the Zwinger.
For the night, the Hotel Suitess offers a stunning view of the rebuilt Frauenkirche cathedral, a symbol of the city’s resilience after the devastating Allied bombing in 1945. As the day winds down, a visit to the hotel’s Gin House provides the perfect opportunity to reflect on the journey with a refreshing drink. The blend of history, culture, and relaxation makes this nostalgic trip aboard the sleeper train an unforgettable experience.
