Researchers have identified a key solution to a common issue with makeup for darker skin tones—an ashy or grey appearance once applied. While the beauty industry has expanded its offerings in recent years, with more inclusive shade ranges, some formulations still struggle to match deeper complexions accurately.
A new approach has been found to create redder and warmer tones in foundation by incorporating ultramarine blue. This addition helps to counteract the dull or ashy finish that often results from formulations that rely heavily on black iron oxide. While some brands already use ultramarine blue, its application is not widespread, and this research provides further insights into why it should be more commonly included in makeup formulations.
The ashy effect in darker foundations is largely due to the properties of black iron oxide, a pigment commonly used in makeup. While it provides the necessary depth for darker shades, its composition can sometimes result in a greyish undertone when applied to the skin. Ultramarine blue, on the other hand, produces redder and yellower hues, which create a warmer and more natural-looking complexion. This pigment also has a lower refractive index compared to black iron oxide, meaning that it creates a less opaque color. This reduced opacity helps mitigate the grey cast often observed in deeper shades.
To better understand the impact of ultramarine blue, researchers developed multiple formulations, including 20 powder foundations and 18 stick foundations, in both darker and lighter shades. The color properties of these products were analyzed using a spectrophotometer, as well as through visual assessments on specialized paper and when applied to participants’ skin.
Findings indicate that ultramarine blue enhances both darker and lighter foundation shades by expanding undertone possibilities. However, it has the most significant effect on deeper shades, where it effectively reduces the ashy appearance that can occur with traditional formulations. The research suggests that combining black iron oxide with ultramarine blue creates more balanced, skin-like shades.
For extremely deep skin tones, ultramarine blue alone may not be sufficient, as it tends to produce a lighter finish compared to black iron oxide when used in the same concentration. However, blending black and blue pigments can lead to a more natural and inclusive shade range, improving the overall look and feel of foundations for a wider variety of skin tones.
The study underscores the importance of adding ultramarine blue across all foundation shades to refine undertones and improve color accuracy. By adopting this approach, cosmetic brands can create more inclusive and effective foundation lines that better match the diverse range of skin tones among consumers.
