Gucci’s latest showcase at Milan Fashion Week was a nostalgic journey through the brand’s most glamorous and sensual eras, drawing inspiration from the 1960s and 1990s. With no creative director at the helm, the presentation became a reflection of Gucci’s legacy and an attempt to remind audiences of what the brand has represented in its most celebrated moments. The collection was a testament to timeless style, offering a mix of classic sophistication and provocative sensuality.
Despite the grandeur of the show complete with a live orchestra and trays of champagne the absence of a creative leader loomed large. The fashion house has been struggling, with sales falling 24% in the last quarter of 2024. The recent departure of designer Sabato De Sarno, while expected, came at a moment that suggested unease within the brand. His vision of quiet luxury, largely focused on understated elegance and classic loafers, failed to resonate with customers who had previously been captivated by the bold, maximalist aesthetic of his predecessor.
In response, the latest collection played to Gucci’s strengths. Luxe faux fur coats and pencil skirts recalled the days when icons like Sophia Loren frequented the brand’s Roman boutique. Shift dresses with oversized buttons and thigh-grazing hemlines paid homage to Jackie Kennedy’s polished yet daring style. The menswear selection tapped into the 1960s as well, with boxy car coats layered over turtlenecks, evoking the beatnik-meets-Cockney charm of Michael Caine in The Italian Job. Signature Gucci elements such as horse-bit hardware and bamboo handles adorned accessories, reinforcing the house’s identity.
The influence of Tom Ford’s 1990s Gucci era was evident throughout. Models walked the runway in slinky slip dresses, some plunging daringly low at the front and back. A sheer lace skirt, revealing little more than a glimpse of black underwear beneath, nodded to the sultry confidence that defined Ford’s tenure.
Beyond the nostalgic references, the design team who collectively took a bow in matching green Gucci sweatshirts embraced a vibrant color palette. A poison-green pencil skirt peeked out from beneath a violet coat, while a blood-red blouse added energy to a pale pink skirt suit. The styling choices injected life into classic silhouettes, offering a fresh take on heritage designs.
As speculation swirls about Gucci’s next move, industry insiders suggest that the brand’s parent company, Kering, is now searching for a high-profile designer to restore its prestige. Having previously taken a chance on an internal candidate, they are reportedly looking for a more established name with a strong vision.
Among the rumored contenders is Hedi Slimane, known for his ability to reinvent heritage brands while maintaining a sense of exclusivity and modern edge. His recent departure from Celine leaves him open to new opportunities, making him a strong possibility for the role. Another name in the mix is Kim Jones, who recently wrapped up a four-year tenure at Fendi. His experience working within the luxury fashion landscape and his ability to balance classicism with contemporary appeal could make him a fitting choice.
Whoever takes the reins at Gucci will be tasked with reigniting excitement among its audience while maintaining the house’s core identity. With the right creative force at the helm, the brand could once again capture the zeitgeist, blending its rich history with a bold new vision for the future.
