Gabriela Hearst, an ethical fashion designer known for sustainability, made a bold statement at Paris fashion week by showcasing garments crafted from vintage real fur. Among her collection were a mink coat, jacket, and stole, all repurposed from second-hand mink coats sourced in Italy. Alongside these, she presented fake fur made from silk schappe, a material derived from silk cocoon processing, and real python skin obtained from invasive species in Florida via Inversa, a company specializing in “ethical exotics.”
Fur is experiencing a surprising resurgence in the fashion world, reigniting debates about ethics and sustainability. While some continue to oppose real fur due to animal welfare concerns, others criticize mass-produced fake fur for its environmental impact, as most are plastic-based and ultimately destined for landfill. The renewed interest in fur coincides with a broader aesthetic shift quiet luxury is giving way to bold, ostentatious styles known as “boom boom,” which embrace excess and hierarchy. Vintage stores, now sought-after destinations for younger shoppers, are making real fur more accessible.
Paris fashion week also saw a movement towards more intimate presentations, replacing grand spectacles with smaller-scale, close-up runway experiences. At Balenciaga, the runway was reduced to the width of a pavement, with seating limited to simple black office chairs, eliminating the traditional hierarchical seating plan. Designer Demna emphasized the immediacy of fashion, presenting real-life-inspired looks such as business suits with subtle wear, a courier in a bike helmet, and a partygoer clutching a phone. His approach underscored the practicality of clothing over exaggerated spectacle.
Similarly, at Givenchy, Sarah Burton kept her debut show’s guest list to a mere 300 and crafted a narrow runway designed to foster intimacy between audience and model. Schiaparelli added another sensory layer, spritzing models with fragrance before they stepped onto the catwalk, reinforcing the importance of proximity.
At Valentino, Alessandro Michele took a different approach, staging his show in a nightclub restroom setting, complete with strip lighting and stainless steel soap dispensers. Models emerged from cubicle doors, reflecting the private yet revealing nature of such spaces. Michele described the setting as a place of candid moments, where personal style is both cultivated and exposed. The collection embodied grand glamour infused with thrift-store sensibilities, blending high fashion with playful subversion.
Paris fashion week’s latest evolution highlights a tension between ethical responsibility and aesthetic desire, between spectacle and intimacy. Whether through recycled materials, unconventional staging, or a return to vintage luxury, designers are reshaping fashion’s future by engaging with the complexities of sustainability and consumer culture.
