The story of St Michael de Rupe Church, perched on a dramatic outcrop in Dartmoor, begins with a sailor caught in a fierce storm. Stricken and praying for salvation, he vowed to build a church if he survived. His ship found land on a mountain, where he fulfilled his promise. The church was built on this high point, but the devil, who had caused the storm, tried to tear it down. However, Archangel Michael protected it, becoming the church’s patron.
Today, St Michael de Rupe stands as the highest working church in southern England, offering an imposing silhouette over the Devon landscape. The church marks the start of the Archangel’s Way, a 38-mile pilgrimage route across Dartmoor, which was established in 2021. The path leads from St Michael de Rupe to another St Michael’s Church in Chagford, passing through villages, pubs, and wild, desolate moorland where remnants of ancient pagan sites remain.
The journey between light and darkness, walking amidst both Christian and pre-Christian remnants, is a spiritual experience in itself. The path cuts across a land that has seen centuries of folklore and myth. The route passes pagan stone circles, cryptic megaliths, and ancient burial sites, creating a juxtaposition of Christendom and older, mystical forces.
The journey is not just one of scenic beauty; it’s a chance to experience Dartmoor’s wild and mysterious spirit. On the route, pilgrims can visit stone circles such as the Nine Maidens, Scorhill, and Cosdon Hill, all surrounded by thick mist and steeped in folklore. These stones, untouched by time, stand as silent witnesses to an era lost to history. Some say the stones are protected by a forcefield, keeping livestock away from these sacred sites.
The walk across Dartmoor is not only a physical journey but also a spiritual one. The Archangel’s Way was created with the intent to harness Dartmoor’s raw, untamed energy and provide a spiritual journey through its wild landscapes. The route ends at St Michael’s Church in Chagford, where the weary traveler can find solace and reflection.
Along the way, Dartmoor reveals both its haunting and its tranquil beauty. From the desolate moorland to the sheltered chapels, the walk encompasses both the isolation and the welcome of the region. Whether battling the elements or marveling at ancient stones, pilgrims follow in the footsteps of centuries of history, folklore, and devotion.
