At Homeland, a lift-free ski experience in Lombardy, you hike up to ski down. Our writer explores whether this could be the future of winter resorts.
The first sign we’re entering the wild is when three mountain goats leap in front of the car, then vanish over a vertiginous drop. My 14-year-old son curses, and I take a deep breath. After navigating some sharp bends, we arrive in Montespluga, a mountain village in the Italian Alps, nearly 2,000 meters above sea level, about two and a half hours from Milan.
Montespluga feels like a ghost town, with old stone houses and an abandoned hotel, save for two sleek shipping container-style buildings: Esplora, Impara, Homeland (Explore, Learn, Homeland). These serve as the base for Homeland, a unique, low-impact ski resort. Here, there are no lifts or groomed runs; instead, the focus is on ski touring and hiking to the best snow.
First-time visitors, skilled but not expert skiers, are encouraged to hire guides, while experienced backcountry skiers can rent touring gear and follow one of the 14 designated trails, ranging from easy to challenging.
Homeland was founded in 2023 by a group of friends including Tommaso Luzzana, Paolo Pichielo, and Walter Bossi, an alpinist and ski tourer from Lecco, who heads the operation. Walter introduces us to Giacomo Casiraghi, our guide for the day. I’m familiar with ski touring, but this is my son’s first experience. Giacomo sets him up with touring skis and skins, which provide traction while climbing. We also carry avalanche safety gear, though the avalanche risk is low.
We start our tour under clear skies and sunshine, with the stunning landscape around us. Giacomo teaches my son how to be more efficient while touring and shows him how to perform kick-turns to navigate steeper slopes. As we reach the Passo della Spluga, a historic customs point, Giacomo shares stories of his great-grandfather, a postman who crossed these mountains with a horse.
After practicing on an intermediate route, we stop when the snow gives way to rocks and grass. We remove our skins, take a quick break, and descend, enjoying the thrill of untracked snow all the way back to Homeland’s base.
I meet Daniela Pilatti, the mayor of Madesimo, who welcomes the idea of a low-impact resort like Homeland, especially as Italian ski resorts face uncertain futures. With most of the country’s slopes relying on artificial snow, she sees ski touring as a sustainable option for the future. Walter agrees, calling Homeland a “laboratory” for testing new ideas in the ski industry.
Along with ski touring, Homeland offers avalanche safety training, winter camping, and snow kiting. They hope to build huts for overnight tours across the Swiss border in the future.
The next day, we visit Madesimo, a traditional resort with snow cannons in operation. While it’s a contrast to the serenity of Homeland, it’s still a family-friendly destination with beautiful runs and great food, all at a lower price than the French Alps.
While my son enjoyed the challenge of ski touring, he was also happy to return to the ski lifts at Madesimo. Homeland is an exciting concept and may be the resort model of the future, but it was perfect for our family to combine both experiences.
