Nestled along Denmark’s north-western coast, the small town of Klitmøller, affectionately known as “Cold Hawaii,” offers an unlikely fusion of traditional fishing culture and modern surfing enthusiasm. Once a sleepy fishing village, Klitmøller has transformed into a vibrant community where old-school fishermen and adventurous surfers coexist, their lives intertwined by the rhythm of the sea.
A Dream of a Different Life
Mai Knudsen, a former civil engineer from Copenhagen, represents a growing number of individuals who have traded the hustle and bustle of city life for the tranquility of Klitmøller. By her early thirties, Knudsen had achieved what many would consider career success, but she felt an overwhelming sense of dissatisfaction. The stress of her job left her drained, and weekends were spent in recovery rather than relaxation.
Everything changed when she visited Klitmøller. Captivated by the town’s serene environment and the constant sound of waves, Knudsen decided to leave her demanding career behind. She purchased a seaside home, transforming the first floor into a cozy pancake café, Kesses Hus, which she runs during the warmer months. In the off-season, Knudsen embraces the waves, spending her days surfing, a pastime she has grown to love.
“I knew I could really live here,” Knudsen reflects, a sentiment shared by many who have made the move to Cold Hawaii. The town has become a haven for those seeking a simpler life, far from the fast-paced urban centers. Today, Klitmøller is a melting pot of cultures, with residents hailing from over 20 countries, including South Africa, Brazil, Australia, and Germany. This eclectic mix includes doctors, lawyers, and even the renowned Danish artist Jeppe Hein, who now teaches local children how to paint their breath in the small seaside town.
A Cultural Renaissance
Klitmøller’s transformation into Cold Hawaii began in the 1980s when the town was on the brink of collapse. Once a bustling fishing port, the village had fallen into decline after its harbor operations moved to nearby Hanstholm in the 1960s. Businesses shuttered, families who had lived there for generations left, and the town seemed destined to fade into obscurity.
The town’s fortunes changed when Christian Dach, a German windsurfer, discovered Klitmøller’s wild waves by chance. His enthusiasm for the area quickly spread, and soon, surfers from around the world began flocking to this remote corner of Denmark. By the 1990s, Cold Hawaii had gained international recognition for its excellent windsurfing and kite surfing conditions. However, the influx of surfers was not initially welcomed by the local fishermen, who saw the newcomers as a nuisance rather than an opportunity.
Building Bridges
Rasmus Johnsen, a surfer with a philosophy degree who relocated to Klitmøller in 2005, recognized the potential for harmony between the town’s traditional fishermen and the new wave of surfers. Working alongside local fisherman Preben Toft Holler, Johnsen devised a plan to integrate the surfers into the community. They helped establish surf schools and rental shops, encouraging the surfers to contribute economically to the town.
Johnsen also played a key role in putting Cold Hawaii on the international surfing map by organizing World Cup competitions and working with local authorities to make the coastline more accessible to watersports enthusiasts. More importantly, he and others worked tirelessly to foster dialogue between the surfers and fishermen, helping them realize that they shared a common love for the sea and a desire to preserve their unique way of life.
“One of the big things that changed the attitude towards surfers was when our grandchildren started to surf,” says Toft Holler, who now trains Denmark’s new generation of fishermen. This newfound understanding allowed the two groups to coexist peacefully, with both surfers and fishermen playing a role in revitalizing Klitmøller. The town, once on the verge of extinction, has experienced a resurgence in population and economic activity.
A Shared Future
Today, Klitmøller is a thriving community where the old and new coexist in harmony. The town’s population has grown from 800 in the year 2000 to around 1,300, and tourism is booming. Visitors from all over the world come to experience the unique atmosphere of Cold Hawaii, where the scent of saltwater lingers in the air and the echoes of the town’s fishing past are still palpable.
The collaboration between surfers and fishermen has led to the establishment of various businesses and cultural initiatives. The town’s surf club is housed in an old lobster shed, while a trendy sauna club on the beach was created by the wives of fishermen who enjoy winter swimming. Even the town’s social events, such as seasonal parties, jazz concerts, and film screenings, often take place in spaces traditionally used for fishing activities.
As people continue to seek refuge from the hustle of urban life, Cold Hawaii’s allure only grows stronger. The community now extends beyond Klitmøller, encompassing the area from Hanstholm Harbour through the picturesque Thy National Park to the town of Agger. Descendants of the original fishing families are returning to Cold Hawaii, drawn back by the town’s revitalization and the opportunity to raise their families in the same place where their ancestors once lived.
For Knudsen and others like her, Cold Hawaii is more than just a place to live—it’s a place to belong. “If you buy a home here in Cold Hawaii, you may own it, but it’s not officially yours until you move away,” Knudsen explains, emphasizing the deep sense of community that pervades the town. As she gazes out at the cobalt sea from her rooftop deck, Knudsen knows she’s found her forever home in this unlikely surf town, where old-school fishermen and surfers live in perfect harmony.
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