As the sun dipped toward the horizon, casting golden reflections across the calm waters of the Seto Inland Sea, I found myself immersed in one of Japan’s most serene and enchanting landscapes. Cycling along the 70km-long Shimanami Kaido, a route famed for its breathtaking views and cultural charm, I was far removed from the urban clamor of Tokyo or Osaka. Instead, I was experiencing the gentle rhythms of island life, pedaling through fishing villages, citrus groves, and past centuries-old shrines. This extraordinary bike trail weaves across six remote islands, linking Honshu and Shikoku through a chain of some of the world’s most magnificent suspension bridges.
The journey began in Onomichi, a small seaport city on Honshu. With its tranquil harbor and hillside temples, Onomichi offered a warm welcome and a glimpse into a slower pace of life. As families strolled along the waterfront and vendors sold matcha ice cream and citrus drinks, the ambiance hinted at the journey ahead one of peace, community, and scenic wonder. After a brief ferry ride to Mukaishima Island, I joined the well-marked blue cycle path and set out toward the first major crossing, the 770-meter-long Innoshima Bridge.
Each island along the Shimanami Kaido has its own character, shaped by centuries of maritime history and agricultural tradition. Innoshima, for instance, is home to Mount Shirataki, a viewpoint accessible by a winding road lined with hundreds of stone Buddhas. From its summit, I admired the sea’s expanse and the nearby islands, understanding why these lands were historically significant to the Murakami Suigun, a seafaring clan that once governed these waters. Their legacy lives on in local museums and legends, adding a layer of depth to the landscape.
Citrus trees clung to hillsides as I cycled through Innoshima and onto Ikuchijima Island, where Setoda a town celebrated as Japan’s lemon capital lies. Shops here brim with lemon-inspired treats, from tangy tarts to refreshing lemonade, reflecting the island’s agricultural roots. I indulged in daifuku filled with the local hassaku orange, savoring the balance of sweetness and tartness. Later, I visited the architecturally rich Kosanji Temple and its striking Miraishin no Oka garden, where white marble structures seemed to gleam with quiet reverence.
Though my journey spanned only 50km in one day, the ease and safety of the route made it accessible and enjoyable. Rest stops, bicycle repair stations, and luggage delivery services are thoughtfully placed, allowing cyclists of all skill levels to travel comfortably. The gradual inclines and car-free sections, especially near the bridges, make the ride both scenic and stress-free. Many locals and visitors alike take advantage of rental services, which include electric bikes for those seeking a more leisurely pace.
As I crossed the 1,480-meter-long Tatara Bridge, with its elegant, fan-like cables, I entered Omoshima Island, where families camped by the sea and fishermen cast lines into the tranquil waters. These glimpses of everyday life underscored the region’s authentic charm. Returning to Setoda at sunset, the sky ablaze with color, I reflected on how this journey offered more than a bike ride it was an intimate encounter with Japan’s rural soul.
The Shimanami Kaido stands as a testament to sustainable tourism, drawing visitors away from crowded cities and into lesser-known regions rich with culture and natural beauty. It’s a pathway not only through space but also through time, revealing the enduring traditions and landscapes that define Japan’s island communities. As I sipped homemade lemonade by the shore, I knew this was an experience I would return to, captivated by the allure of Japan’s most spectacular bike ride.
