An alpine winter escape offers the perfect balance of indulgence and adventure, especially in the medieval Haute-Savoie village of Samoëns. Nestled within the Grand Massif ski domain, this picturesque destination is a haven not just for skiing but also for gourmet delights and breathtaking winter landscapes.
A visit to Ferme Dunoyer sets the tone for a true mountain feast. The scent of the farm’s 84 cows lingers in the air, adding an authentic touch to the dining experience. Inside the cozy, pine-walled restaurant, a communal wooden table is set for a banquet of rich alpine specialties. The meal begins with classic fondue savoyarde, followed by tartiflette, raclette, and diots—smoked pork sausages served with polenta. Slow-cooked potée savoyarde, made with pork shoulder, cabbage, and potatoes, rounds out the savory dishes before a selection of local cheeses like reblochon and tomme de savoie. A creamy blueberry dessert provides the perfect sweet finish.
Beyond its culinary scene, Samoëns holds a fascinating history. Its covered market, dating back to 1355, continues to operate every Wednesday, and the village’s stone architecture showcases the craftsmanship of its renowned stonemasons. In the heart of the village, the Place du Gros Tilleul is home to a majestic lime tree planted in 1438, standing as a symbol of the town’s enduring charm.
Wine is another highlight, with the region boasting an impressive variety of grapes despite being one of the smallest wine-producing areas in France. At the annual Vignerons font du ski festival, held every January, visitors can sample wines from local producers and those from other French regions. Domaine Vallier, run by winemaker Adrien Vallier, is known for its dry white wines made from the indigenous gringet grape. The diversity of Savoie’s terroirs, stretching from Lake Geneva to Grenoble, allows for over 20 different grape varieties to thrive, a rarity even among renowned wine regions.
Cheese lovers will find plenty to savor at Fromagerie Fruitière des Hauts de Savoie, a cooperative where farmers bring fresh milk to be turned into reblochon and other regional cheeses. Local specialties such as crioutin, a fresh cow’s milk cheese from Ferme du Criou, can also be found here. At the Neige et Roc hotel restaurant, a hearty soupe châtrée—made with stale bread, tomme de savoie, and a slow-cooked onion broth—offers a comforting taste of tradition.
For those looking to add a touch of finesse to their culinary experience, pastry-making classes provide a delightful contrast to the rustic mountain fare. Led by an expert pastry chef, these workshops guide participants through the intricate process of creating a charlotte russe, a delicate dessert of soft biscuits, whipped vanilla ganache, and pear jam.
While skiing is a major draw, the mountains offer plenty of other winter activities. A stroll at Col de Joux Plane presents panoramic views of Mont Blanc, while cross-country ski trails and toboggan runs provide alternative ways to enjoy the snow. For the adventurous, cold-water swimming at Lac aux Dames, followed by a mobile sauna session, offers an invigorating experience. Ice-skating in the heart of the village is another favorite pastime.
Perhaps the most memorable experience is a snowshoe hike at dusk near La Rosière. As the moon rises over the snowy forest, the crisp air carries the scent of pine, creating an almost magical atmosphere. After 90 minutes of tranquil hiking, a cozy tepee awaits, where a fondue savoyarde is prepared over an open fire. Paired with a carefully curated wine tasting, this warm and convivial gathering in the stillness of the winter night is the perfect way to end a day in the Alps. The skis can certainly wait.
