Onboard the inaugural European Sleeper service from Brussels to Venice, the journey had its share of hiccups, but the adventure was still one to remember. The train, nicknamed the Good Night Train, departed from Brussels’ Zuid station, albeit 40 minutes late due to some trespassers on the tracks. Soon, the train sped along, the golden lights of the Belgian capital streaming past the windows as passengers settled in, stowing skis, calming children, and making small talk. However, the trip’s destination was not as initially promised.
Two days prior to departure, passengers received an email indicating that the train would only reach Verona, not Venice. And on the evening of departure, it was announced that Italian bureaucracy had led to an even bigger detour our final stop would now be Innsbruck, and from there, we would transfer to other trains to reach Verona and eventually Venice. While some travelers were frustrated, many took the news in stride. For most, the destination was secondary; the charm of the train journey itself was the real allure.
Having spent several years traveling on sleeper trains across Europe, I wasn’t bothered by the changes. In fact, I relished the journey, the mishaps, and the camaraderie of fellow passengers. European Sleeper, the company behind this service, was working hard to make night trains accessible at a reasonable cost, which was a major draw. Although the carriages were aged, dating back to the 1950s, they exuded a nostalgic charm. The interior was less than perfect, with temperamental lights and heating, and the couchettes though functional showed their years. But this didn’t seem to dampen anyone’s spirits.
The train was intended to run as a winter service, operating from December to mid-March. This inaugural journey, in essence, was a test-run. The focus was on offering affordable travel options for families, students, and solo adventurers alike, and despite the occasional logistical challenges, the experience was enjoyable.
As we moved through the train, the atmosphere was lively, particularly in the dining car, where the hum of conversation and laughter filled the space. Passengers had packed bottles of wine, snacks, and shared meals, some gathering in five-person couchette compartments where mini house parties were in full swing. The excitement was palpable, especially for Sophie and Aurélien, who were traveling with their four-year-old son, eager to show him snow for the first time. They had chosen the train over flying to minimize their environmental impact, finding the €200 fare for a private couchette a great value for the whole family.
In comparison to my earlier trip aboard the Good Night Train in May 2023, which lacked a dining car and left much to be desired in terms of meals, this time there was a more refined dining experience. I was able to book a three-course dinner, and although some passengers were disappointed to find that the slots were already filled, many embraced the chance to socialize and pack their own food.
By midnight, most of the noise had quieted down, and I settled into my berth, armed with earplugs to block out the sounds of the rattling train. The next morning, I awoke to stunning views of the Alps as we neared Innsbruck. After a quick change to an ÖBB Railjet service, we continued our journey, traversing the scenic Brenner Pass, before finally reaching Verona and catching the last leg of the journey to Venice.
Though we arrived two hours late, the view of Venice from the station, with its iconic lagoon and the city bathed in sunset light, made up for the delays. A short walk led us to the Avani Rio Novo hotel, where we could relax before heading out to a delightful family-run osteria for dinner. Here, we bumped into fellow passengers, swapping stories of our train adventures, all hoping that European Sleeper would soon overcome the bureaucratic hurdles and improve their service for future trips.
