Standing in a Scottish seaside village, I am greeted by two red doors and a curious figure in a niche above them: a man, one hand clutching a staff, the other shading his eyes as he gazes out to sea. With a flintlock pistol at his belt and dressed in tattered rags, he looks like a character from another time. The plaque nearby reveals that this is a tribute to Alexander Selkirk, the mariner who inspired the story of Robinson Crusoe.
This is the birthplace of Selkirk, born in 1676 in Lower Largo, Fife. As I stand here, a forgotten melody suddenly surfaces in my mind the theme from The Adventures of Robinson Crusoe, a German television series aired in the UK during the time of the Apollo 11 moon landings. The tune takes me back to childhood memories when I dreamed of traveling the world instead of becoming an astronaut. Now, here I am, standing on the same shores that Selkirk once looked across, imagining him staring out at the Isle of May or Bass Rock, where I once voyaged as a child.
I’m about to start a four-day section of the Fife Coastal Path, a 116-mile trail connecting the firths of Forth and Tay. This scenic route takes in some of Scotland’s most charming seaside villages and offers spectacular views. It is also part of the Beach of Dreams, a UK-wide coastal arts festival running from May to June.
Leaving Selkirk’s memory behind, I set out on the coastal path, passing a wide bay where the retreating tide exposes a stretch of sand teeming with wading birds. As I walk, I notice how the marine life changes day by day. Today, I see heaps of razor clam shells and limpets, but tomorrow, I’ll encounter periwinkles, cockles, and mussels.
The first notable feature along the way is the Elie Chain Walk at Kincraig Point. Though its origins are unclear, this adventurous coastal path now boasts eight steel chains to help climbers scramble across the rugged cliffs. It’s only accessible at low tide, but the reward is a secret world of crashing waves, sea arches, and hidden caves.
Further along, I reach the village of Elie, a delightful blend of ancient stone houses and vibrant activity. Foil surfers ride the waves, and I find a beachside sauna with smoke curling from its chimney. I decide to take a dip and warm up afterward. The sauna’s creator, Judith Dunlop, is here and shares the story of how she started the portable sauna business in Elie. Now, she runs several other locations along the coast, and I realize it’s possible to complete each day’s walk with a sauna at the end, making for a perfect combination of exercise and relaxation.
The next day, I continue through the fishing villages of St Monans and Pittenweem, both excellent spots for a café break. In Anstruther, I meet artist Julie Brook, who is preparing to begin an artwork titled Tide Line as part of the Beach of Dreams festival. Julie takes me to the rocky intertidal zone, where she plans to build a pathway leading into an area that’s too slippery for most people to venture. Her passion for her work is contagious, and I can’t help but admire her vision. We discuss the design of the piece, and I marvel at her belief that even a path that leads nowhere can still hold great meaning.
As I walk on, I reach Crail, where a warm bowl of soup awaits at the Harbour Gallery tearoom. The landscape grows wilder as I pass Fife Ness, with its rocky outcrops and wind-swept kelp. At Kingsbarns, I enjoy a hearty dinner at the Inn, which is just a short walk from Cambo Sands beach, another location with a sauna.
My final day takes me into St Andrews, where I finish my walk with a sauna at East Sands. The growing sauna culture in Britain is evident here, with locals enjoying a chat and a warm, relaxing environment. I can’t help but wonder what Selkirk would have made of such a place. When he was rescued from his island after more than four years, he remarked on how much solitude and a simple life had benefited both his body and mind. Back in Scotland, Selkirk found a spot that reminded him of his time on the island Kincraig Point, where the Elie Chain Walk now stands.
The Fife Coastal Path is a treasure trove of history, natural beauty, and creative endeavors. Whether you’re walking for the stunning views or the artistic experiences along the way, it offers a unique connection to the past and the sea.
