The Llŷn Peninsula, with its wild and jagged topography, has an undeniable mystique, almost as if it were straight from a Tolkien novel. Stretching out into the Irish Sea, its rugged beauty has attracted both nature lovers and filmmakers alike. Its striking landscapes were chosen as the setting for the recent House of the Dragon series, and its rich history draws people eager to connect with the legends, culture, and industries that have shaped this beautiful corner of North Wales.
As I begin my journey, the Wales Coast Path guides me through the peninsula, offering insight into the enduring relationship between the people and the sea. My first walk takes me from Borth-y-Gest to Criccieth Castle, a scenic six-mile stretch along the coast. At the start of the walk, the retreating tide has left behind boats stranded in the sand, while huge slabs of layered black and grey slate, scattered across the beach, seem to hint at the presence of giants. These rocks might have inspired the ancient tale of Brân the Blessed, whose gigantic severed head, according to the Mabinogi, was carried back to the Llŷn by his loyal knights.
From Graig Ddu, also known as Black Rock, the view of Criccieth Castle is dramatic. Perched on a cliff, this 13th-century fortification stands as a reminder of Welsh independence and the power of Llywelyn the Great, who had it built to assert control over rival Welsh princes. The castle was famously painted by J.M.W. Turner during his 1835 tour of Wales, capturing a tempest raging over the ruins. A century later, the castle was nearly destroyed by a violent storm that hit the area in 1927. The storm surge devastated homes along the cliffs, and it was decided never to rebuild in the area.
The next walk begins in Pwllheli, a coastal town with sweeping views of the Rhinogydd mountain range. Pwllheli’s West End Parade offers a quieter atmosphere, though its Victorian seaside heritage is evident in the beachfront properties and the once-glamorous West End Hotel, built by entrepreneur Solomon Andrews in the late 19th century. I follow the old tramway, now part of the Wales Coast Path, to Traeth Llanbedrog, a charming bay where brightly colored huts line the top of the beach. A steep climb through Plas Glyn y Weddw’s gardens leads me to Mynydd Tir y Cwmwd, from where I can see the resort town of Abersoch. With its fleet of speedboats and jetskis, it feels more like the French Riviera than a quiet Welsh village.
In the distance, Bardsey Island, or Ynys Enlli, shrouded in legend, lies before me. Once home to Cadfan, a 6th-century Welsh saint, the island’s mystical reputation grew through stories claiming it to be the burial place of Merlin and the location where King Arthur forged Excalibur.
My final walk, the most challenging, stretches 13 miles from the fishing village of Porthdinllaen to the town of Trefor. The path here has suffered from erosion, with diversions sending walkers inland. In Nefyn, I stop for coffee at a beachfront café, where a local woman tells me about a petition to repair the path for the sake of tourism.
At St Beuno’s Church, the path climbs up a headland with a breathtaking view across to Holyhead. Further along, I arrive at Nant Gwrtheyrn, once an important quarry that supplied granite for Victorian city streets. The quarry’s decline after the First World War led to the abandonment of the village by the 1950s. However, a visionary named Carl Clowes worked to transform the site into the Nant Gwrtheyrn National Welsh Language and Heritage Centre. The project became a reality in 2003, with a celebratory concert by the Super Furry Animals, whose members were deeply connected to the area.
The final stretch of the walk involves a steep, grueling ascent, which leaves me out of breath but with a sense of achievement. I eventually reach Trefor, where I relax in the local pub, Y Tafarn, and chat with the landlord about the filming of House of the Dragon. He casually mentions that actor Rhys Ifans had stopped by the pub recently, though the landlord seems indifferent to the celebrity culture surrounding the area. As he says, “You’re the only pub that doesn’t want my photo on the wall.”
