Getting away from it all is the essence of any holiday, and few places offer such a sense of escape as the Cantal region in France’s Massif Central. This rural heartland, nestled in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, is a land of volcanic peaks, hot springs, and picturesque villages. In spring, the meadows burst into bloom with wildflowers arnica, narcissi, and orchids flourishing in the volcanic soil, making it one of Europe’s most biodiverse landscapes.
The region’s rich flora contributes to the flavors of its cheeses, notably Salers Tradition, one of France’s rarest. Produced by fewer than ten cheesemakers, it comes from Salers cows, which only give milk in the presence of their calves. The villages of Anglards-de-Salers, Saint-Bonnet-de-Salers, and Salers itself charm visitors with their grey stone buildings and tranquil atmosphere. At Le P’tit Comptoir, a local wine and cheese bar, visitors savor charcuterie and cheese, immersing themselves in the region’s culinary heritage.
The road to Pailherols winds through the dramatic landscape, passing Puy Mary, one of Cantal’s most striking peaks. The journey offers breathtaking views of glacial valleys, craggy summits, and burons stone huts once used by cowherds making cheese and living off la truffade, a hearty dish of melted tomme cheese and potatoes. The narrow roads demand careful navigation, but the spectacular scenery makes every moment worthwhile.
Arriving in Pailherols after dark, visitors find warmth and hospitality at Auberge des Montagnes and Chez Marie. The hosts, Vincent and Marie, offer a taste of local cuisine, featuring honey-roasted pork and blond lentils, complemented by volcanic wine. The next morning, golden dandelions and cowslips blanket the fields, creating a stunning contrast against the blue sky. A short drive leads to Pierrefort, where wisteria-clad stone houses line the streets, and a central square features a statue of an Aubrac bull, celebrated in the annual La Fête des Tersons festival.
Beyond its culinary delights, the region boasts natural thermal springs. Chaudes-Aigues, a small town on the edge of the Aubrac plateau, is home to Europe’s hottest springs. The Source du Par offers a simple stone trough where steaming water flows at 65°C, while another spring reaches a scalding 82°C, filling the air with a faint sulphurous scent. The town’s history with geothermal heating dates back to 1332, when an underground network of pinewood pipes created one of Europe’s earliest central heating systems.
A scenic drive leads to the ruins of Château de Couffour, where a Michelin-starred restaurant stands against an expansive backdrop of rolling hills and blossoming trees. Though closed until late May, the site offers panoramic views of the valley below. Returning to Hôtel Sodade for the night, visitors enjoy a refined meal crafted by chef Aurélien Gransagne steamed asparagus with mousseline, poached egg, and tender pork with fennel purée. A side of la truffade completes the experience, bringing together the region’s rustic traditions and culinary excellence.
From volcanic landscapes to centuries-old traditions, Cantal offers an unforgettable journey through France’s untamed beauty, where every road leads to a breathtaking view and every meal tells a story of the land
