Surfers are bobbing in the whitewater shallows off Newquay’s Fistral Beach, waiting for that moment when a mighty Atlantic roller sweeps them to their feet. When it arrives – the Big One – they rise in unison, carving effortlessly into the wave with balletic grace. Despite the biting cold, the surfers seem undeterred, as if the cold adds to the allure.
There’s something undeniably magical about Cornwall in the off-season. The crowds are long gone, and the elements have free rein over the coastline. Storm Éowyn recently made her presence known, thrashing the shores with brutal winds and surging surf. But even during calmer days, the landscape feels wild, as if nature itself is putting on an unpredictable performance of crashing waves, gusty winds, and dramatic skies.
Just a short walk along the South West Coast Path from Newquay reminds me of Cornwall’s raw beauty. The trail is a challenging 630 miles, stretching from Minehead to Poole, passing through the rugged terrains of North Devon and Cornwall. Though most opt to tackle it in the warmer months, the intrepid few who take it on during winter must be prepared for the elements, as they can change without warning. The dramatic conditions have been immortalized in Raynor Winn’s memoir The Salt Path, in which she chronicled her journey along the trail with her partner while facing immense personal challenges. The upcoming film adaptation, starring Gillian Anderson and Jason Isaacs, has sparked much conversation, especially at the Headland Hotel where Anderson stayed during filming.
This iconic hotel, a vast red-brick Edwardian structure, stands resiliently on a windswept peninsula, watching over the restless surf of Fistral Beach. During winter, the hotel’s storm-watching packages are a major draw. Guests hunker down in the warmth while watching the ocean’s ferocity unfold. One regular guest shared their experience: “One night, the wind was so fierce that a gargoyle broke loose from the roof, and the sea – I’ve never seen it so wild. The roar was deafening. You can’t even stand upright; the wind just takes you.” Despite the cold, I too find myself falling asleep to the hypnotic howl of the wind and the ceaseless sound of waves crashing against the rugged coast.
By day, the hotel exudes a nostalgic charm with its sagging sofas, swirly carpets, and grand staircases. However, modern touches, including an excellent spa and exceptional food at the ocean-facing RenMor restaurant, balance out the vintage atmosphere. Meals like roast Cornish chicken with woodland mushrooms and tarragon are a treat, but the true spectacle is just outside the window. The sea sparkles like a piece of scuffed metal, and seagulls wheel against a cold, blue sky. It’s a view no summer visitor will experience.
The Headland Hotel offers stays starting from £180 a night, room only. For those traveling from London, a return journey to Newquay on Great Western Railway costs around £90.
For those seeking a similar dramatic coastal retreat, the Corsewall Lighthouse Hotel near Stranraer in Scotland offers a spectacular experience. Located on a remote point, this 19th-century lighthouse offers stunning views of the coastline, with a chance to spot wildlife such as deer, otters, and seabirds. The rooms in the original lighthouse keeper’s accommodation are particularly special, offering front-row seats to the relentless waves crashing below, while guests can enjoy gourmet meals in the hotel’s restaurant. Stays here begin at £175 per night, including breakfast.
Alternatively, Le Semaphore de Lervily in Brittany, France, offers a windswept experience. This restored naval semaphore station sits on a promontory facing the Atlantic’s fury. The interiors combine minimalist elegance with ocean views, and the location provides a peaceful retreat from the stormy surroundings. Guests can explore nearby beaches or enjoy delicious local cuisine. Prices start from £343 per night.
For a more luxurious coastal getaway, the Akelarre Hotel in San Sebastian, Spain, offers panoramic views of the Bay of Biscay. The hotel’s elevated position means guests can watch the wild ocean crashing against the cliffs while enjoying the comfort of heated pools, plush rooms, and a Michelin-starred restaurant. Prices here begin at £365 per night.
Cornwall’s dramatic winter landscape offers an experience like no other, making it a perfect destination for those willing to brave the elements.
