A winter canal trip offers a different kind of experience, far from the usual summer hustle and bustle. The Leeds & Liverpool Canal, which traverses the Pennines, provided a perfect setting for a peaceful winter getaway. Despite the cold, the boat was warm and inviting, with a centrally heated interior that ensured comfort against the chill outside. As I steered a wide-beam boat through the frozen waters, the crack of ice against the hull was a reminder of the season’s quiet beauty. The canal, with its snow-covered hills in the distance, seemed to hold a certain stillness that you don’t get in the busy summer months.
Usually associated with summer holidays, canal boating in the off-season (from October to May) offers a more tranquil experience. The absence of queues at locks and water points makes it an ideal time for beginners. I was handling a boat for the first time, and the calm waters made the task less intimidating. The Leeds & Liverpool Canal, completed in 1816, features spacious locks, originally designed for large cargo boats, which now accommodate larger leisure vessels. Our wide-beam boat provided more than enough room for four, with a cozy interior that included two en suite bedrooms, a large open-plan living space, and the luxury of central heating.
Our route took us west from Silsden, with plans to reach the summit level near Barnoldswick. However, a series of maintenance issues slowed us down. Two locks leaked badly, and several paddles were broken, forcing us to work together to open the gates. We also encountered low water levels in the pound between locks, which meant adjusting our plans. Instead of pushing forward, we decided to moor in Gargrave, allowing us to take a break and explore the Pennine Way on foot.
In Gargrave, we met fellow canal enthusiasts who shared stories of the challenges posed by the canal’s aging infrastructure. Poor maintenance has caused ongoing issues, with some boaters reporting long delays at locks and disruptions caused by low water levels. The Canal & River Trust has been working to address these concerns, but the lack of resources has made the upkeep of the canal difficult.
As we hunkered down for the evening in Gargrave, enjoying local fare at the Masons Arms, the forecasted storm put a halt to further progress on the water. With a change of direction, we abandoned our original goal of reaching the summit and headed back towards Skipton. The journey back was slower, but the misty hills and fields, with sheep grazing in the rain, created a magical atmosphere. Skipton, with its charming canalside cafes and pubs, became our base for a few days. It was a perfect place to relax, enjoy some local ale, and explore the Yorkshire Dales.
The winter sun eventually broke through as we made our way back to Silsden, but the journey itself, not the destination, had become the highlight. Despite the obstacles, including broken locks, swing-bridges, and a storm, the trip brought us closer to the essence of the waterways. By continuing to use the canals, we played our part in preserving them for the future, echoing the sentiment of the Inland Waterways Association’s founder, Tom Rolt, who in the 1940s cruised the Leeds & Liverpool Canal to highlight its deteriorating state.
Our week-long journey covered 23 miles, passing through 28 movable bridges and six locks. It wasn’t just about reaching a specific point on the map, but rather about embracing the journey itself, with all its unexpected turns. Even in winter, the canal offered a peaceful retreat, a reminder of the charm and serenity that can be found in off-season travel.
