Nestled in the heart of the Sonoran Desert, Tucson, Arizona, may not be the first place that comes to mind when thinking of America’s culinary hot spots. Yet this city, with its rich cultural tapestry, holds a unique and ancient food story that sets it apart as a truly distinctive destination for food lovers. With a history that spans thousands of years, Tucson is the oldest continuously cultivated region in the United States, home to a food culture that predates many modern culinary traditions.
The area’s agricultural roots go back more than 4,000 years to the Indigenous Tohono O’odham people. Tucson is recognized by UNESCO as a City of Gastronomy, an honor given to cities that celebrate and preserve their culinary heritage. This designation, awarded in 2015, highlighted the city’s deep agricultural legacy and its vibrant food scene. From traditional Sonoran ingredients to modern takes on ancient recipes, Tucson is becoming increasingly known for its unique blend of flavors and cooking techniques.
Walking through the historic San Xavier del Bac Mission, located just outside Tucson, offers a glimpse into the city’s complex past. Established in 1700 by Spanish settlers, the mission is a symbol of the city’s Spanish heritage. Nearby, the San Xavier Co-op Farm sits on land that has been cultivated by Indigenous people for millennia. Chef Ryan Clark, a Tucson native, pointed out that this soil is the oldest continuously farmed ground in the United States. It was here that the Tohono O’odham transitioned from foraging and hunting to cultivating crops like corn, a practice that would shape the region’s foodways for centuries.
Tucson’s culinary identity is a product of many influences. It is a fusion of Native American, Spanish, and Anglo American traditions, with waves of other cultures, including Chinese railroad workers, further enriching the city’s diverse food offerings. Carolyn Niethammer, the author of A Desert Feast: Celebrating Tucson’s Culinary Heritage, emphasizes that Tucsonan cuisine was fusion long before it became a buzzword in the culinary world. Over the centuries, the people of the Sonoran Desert developed a deep knowledge of the land and its offerings. Indigenous people learned to forage the desert for edible plants such as mesquite pods, prickly pear fruits, and cholla buds, which are still used in modern dishes today.
Many Tucson chefs are embracing these ancient ingredients and incorporating them into contemporary culinary creations. Chef Kayla Draper, a Navajo Nation member, uses mesquite pods in her mesquite tiramisu, pairing it with prickly pear sorbet. At her restaurant, The Hub, Draper also serves blue corn macarons and corn masa ice cream, demonstrating how traditional desert ingredients can be woven into innovative desserts. Chef Ryan Clark, too, highlights the unique flavors of Tucson’s desert landscape by featuring cholla buds, which he likens to “desert asparagus,” in salads and other dishes.
The history of agriculture in Tucson began around 2200 BCE when early inhabitants began planting crops such as corn, beans, and squash the three staples of Indigenous cuisine known as “The Three Sisters.” These foods remain a vital part of Tucson’s dining culture, from casual eateries to upscale restaurants like Maynards Kitchen. There, diners can experience modern interpretations of The Three Sisters, often paired with ingredients like Sonoran wheat, which was introduced by Spanish settlers in the late 16th century. This wheat variety, now a staple in local bakeries, adds a nutty flavor to breads and tortillas, another legacy of Tucson’s multicultural roots.
The city’s food scene continues to evolve, with contemporary chefs drawing inspiration from Tucson’s agricultural history while introducing new flavors and techniques. Tucson’s cuisine is a testament to the resilience and creativity of the people who have lived here for thousands of years. It’s a city where ancient traditions meet modern innovation, offering visitors a unique taste of the American Southwest. With its blend of history, culture, and creativity, Tucson is undoubtedly one of America’s most underrated culinary capitals.
