My winter campervan adventure through the Cairngorms, Scotland, was an unforgettable journey. Together with my friend Anna, we set off in Rowan, a bright red campervan, picking it up from Big Sky Campers near Edinburgh. The Cairngorms, the UK’s largest national park, spans over 1,700 square miles, and it felt like the perfect winter escape, with dramatic mountain views, frosty walks, and serene landscapes.
The drive took us through an enchanting frost-covered landscape, with hills looming in the distance beneath a pale winter sun. We passed through Dunkeld, stopping for pastries from Aran Bakery, before heading into the heart of the Cairngorms. On our road trip, we followed the Snow Roads, a 90-mile route that traverses some of the highest public roads in Britain. The Snow Roads were a stunning mix of mountain passes and secluded landscapes, and we planned to drive its entirety over the course of two days, looping back into the park near Blair Atholl.
By the time we reached RSPB Insh Marshes, the daylight was fading. We ventured out on a short one-mile walk through birch trees and snowy hills, watching the flocks of greylag geese overhead. That evening, we stayed at Dalraddy Holiday Park, a peaceful site surrounded by nature, where we cozied up in the van after a chilly day. The comfort of the heated seats and warm bedding made it easy to enjoy the quiet of the Scottish night, with the sound of a tawny owl’s call lulling us to sleep.
The next day, we ventured higher into the mountains, feeling far from civilization. We spent time exploring a candlelit bothy on the Alvie Estate, where red deer grazed nearby, and tried our luck at spotting red squirrels from a hide. The Cairngorms’ relaxed outdoor access rules meant we could roam freely, but a guided tour with Jamie, the estate manager, made the experience even more enriching.
After a long day on the Snow Roads, we arrived at Howe of Torbeg, nestled outside the dark sky park. While the clouds obscured the stars, the peaceful setting made it a perfect place to unwind. We took our time the next day, retracing our route to appreciate the views in full daylight. A stop at The Watchers, an art installation with striking cocoon-like seats, gave us the perfect vantage point over the mountain vistas bathed in golden hour light.
Though we didn’t spend the whole trip in the van—opting for a warm bed at local inns when the temperatures dipped too low—we cherished the moments spent in Rowan. It became our cozy retreat for tea and sandwiches beside a mountain stream, where we watched the ever-changing weather from the comfort of the van’s heated seats.
Our journey continued south to Ballater, where we explored the village’s charming streets and local shops. The last stretch of the Snow Roads was as picturesque as the rest, leading us to Braemar, where we joined a tour to explore the Linn of Dee and meet the famous Highland cows. As we neared the end of the Snow Roads, the landscape softened, becoming greener and gentler, but still awe-inspiring.
For our final night, we stayed at the Old Manse of Blair, where we were treated to mulled cider and warm hospitality. The following morning, we woke to the hills bathed in soft sunlight, with heather strewn across the mountainside. It was a perfect way to end a journey that felt timeless, a trip where the beauty of the Cairngorms and the freedom of campervan life made us feel like we could keep going forever.
